Inveroran – Glencoe Mountain Resort (13.5km)
We filled up our flasks at the drinking water tap outside the Inveroran Hotel, poked our heads into the walkers’ bar which looked very cosy and inviting – next time! And set off on our way.
A short distance up the road from the hotel we saw some of our trail pals who had pitched up by the Allt Tolaghan. On the other side of the bridge it looked as though an organised camp had been set up, with a herd of matching green tents huddled on the grassy banks.
Our pals asked why we weren’t camping there, and we said that with heavy rain and high winds forecast from early morning, we’d rather get across Rannoch Moor now as it’s so exposed. They said that with achy legs and sore feet they’d rather take their chances tomorrow – so we parted ways.
We carried on towards the end of the public road, past some magnificent Scots pines. There’s a car park on the left just before the pines that’s used by people doing the Black Mount Munros – some more we’d like to come back and do. So many Munros, so little time!
We crossed over the Abhainn Shira on Victoria Bridge and got our last view of Loch Tulla.
Straight after the bridge is Forest Lodge. I can’t find any info about its history – if anyone knows about it please comment below! The finger post on the first photo points to the, “public footpath to Loch Etive by Glen Kinglass” – which sound like an epic walk!
Next to Forest Lodge we came to the end of the public road, and the start of both the 19th century Old Glencoe Road (now used by the West Highland Way) and the older Black Mount Military Road (which is not maintained and harder to find).
It’s marked by an old rights of way sign and an official West Highland Way marker. ScotWays (The Scottish Rights of Way and Access Society) kindly shared this fascinating post about the sign (the link in the tweet is broken but this heritage path link will work instead):
The Old Glencoe Road/West Highland Way is one of Thomas Telford’s “Parliamentary Roads” and after the gate we saw this info board about it. It was replaced by the modern A82 in the 1930s.
As we were following the West Highland Way, we went straight ahead on Telford’s Old Glencoe Road. Having experienced the bogs of Rannoch Moor in the past we couldn’t believe how good the surface of the road was. At first it ascends gently through trees, including Scots Pines.
Above the trees the views started to open out and we could see back to Beinn Dòrain and Beinn an Dòthaidh – two mountains that are definitely calling us!
The first of many bridge-breaks at the top of an area of plantation. The old road crosses so many burns on its way across the moor – what an incredible feat of engineering!
To our left here we could see the foothills of one of the Black Mount Munros – Stob a’Choire Odhair. It’s normally done with its neighbour Stob Ghabhar.
The path got much flatter after the pull up through the trees, and the landscape opened out with absolutely wonderful views in all directions!
Crossing another one of the many bridges.
Looking forward to Creise and Meall a’Bhùiridh / looking back to the Beinn Dòrain range.
Another bridge meant time for a break and get out those Bobby’s Onion Rings I’d carried all the way from Brodie’s shop. They sure tasted good!
We passed more plantations on either side, the path turned a corner and we looked back to see amazing views of the Beinn Dòrain range behind us.
From beside the right hand plantation there are great views of Stob a’Choire Odhair – you can see its peak now.
A wee chaffinch friend came to say hi at the next bridge.
Lochan Mhic Pheadair Ruaidh is right beside the path here. We saw someone camped up in a sheltered spot between two mounds, and stopped for a chat. We mentioned the storm was due around 2-4am and she said she’ll just pack up early. She asked if we’d like to camp there with her, but we said we’d rather continue on in the good weather. A man walking the opposite direction stopped to chat too. We only saw about five other people on that whole section but everyone stopped to greet and check up on each other – there’s a great sense of camaraderie on the trail.
We could the mythical Ba Bridge ahead, surrounded by silver birches. We’d heard so much about this place from other hikers. One person had even described it as “an oasis”.
It was surprising to come across these native trees, as the only other trees near here had been in plantations. I guess they survive because the rocky ravine protects them from being eaten by deer.
Because Telford’s Road here coincides with the old military road, no one is sure whether Ba Bridge was originally built by the army, or later by Telford’s commission (in the 1700s). Either way certainly an impressive structure!
When we thought we might be crossing here in the storm some people had said there’s a shelf under the bridge where you can shelter, but I didn’t like the idea of that if the water was rising!
Straight after Ba Bridge the route starts to climb towards the highest point of the moorland crossing.
We looked back for a last glimpse of Ba Bridge – having passed it felt like an import point psychologically – it meant we were nearing our destination. Not that it was a chore walking on such a glorious evening!
A good time to take in the views!
Just after Ba Bridge we came to the ruins of Ba Cottage at the foot of Clach Leathad.
By the ruined cottage there was another bridge. Yes – you guessed it, that means another snack stop! The time had come to get out my Green Welly Stop sandwich. I was very happy, as you can see.
We were surrounded by mountains, the evening light was incredible. We hadn’t seen a soul since the lochan, and we were floating along the path in a state of ecstasy.
We spotted a cairn above us, which we later found out was the Fleming Cairn. It’s by the old military road, near the highest point on Rannoch Moor at Gualann Laith Ghiubhais. It was constructed in memory of Ian Fleming’s brother Peter. The Flemings are the land owners here.
Big excitement when Buachaille Etive Mòr came into view!
We walked in its majesty, in the magical light of the setting sun.
A sign pointed towards Glencoe Mountain Resort – the place recommended by Mike all the way back in Tyndrum that morning. As the storm was imminent it was appealing to camp somewhere with facilities. Plus it had a bar which closed at 8pm – in 20min so we hot footed it up the path.
Reader, we made it.
I asked for a half and the lovely woman at the bar upgraded me to a pint because she said I deserved it!
We sipped our pints outside the bar, and watched the sun kiss good night to the mountain.
Then set up our tent in the camping area in the last light of the day. We spent a lot of time doing what our friend Adam calls our “Geological survey” to decide where to put it, because the storm was coming in the wee hours.
And cooked the noodles we’d bought from Brodie’s Store that morning, before heading off to bed hoping the tent would stand up to the coming weather…
