Tyndrum to Inveroran (14km)
We were following the classic 8 day itinerary, so had planned to walk to Inveroran and camp there. But the friendly owner, Mike at By The Way campsite suggested to go all the way to Glencoe Mountain Resort if we could.
The forecast for the next day was atrocious – heavy rain and high winds all day. If we stuck to our itinerary we’d be crossing Rannoch Moor in extreme conditions – which didn’t appeal to us! Mike said Glencoe Mountain Resort had a campsite and cafe so it sounded like an ideal place to sit out the weather.
We decided to aim for Glencoe Mountain Resort but if we were too tired or it was too late when we got to Inveroran we’d reassess. We packed down and set off from the campsite…
…via a breakfast buttie at Green Welly Stop and a resupply at Brodie’s shop. Green Welly has been in Tyndrum since 1965, and Brodie’s since 1930!
After Brodie’s shop the trail goes between the A82 and the West Highland Line again. This is another place we’ve often glimpsed walkers out the window, so we were excited to finally be here walking along it. Spot the Bobby’s Onion Rings from Brodie’s in my backpack pocket – top hiking snack!
We crossed over the West Highland Line, and followed the Old Military Road parallel to the A82 and the railway. We waved goodbye to the Corbett, Beinn Odhar – at 902m it’s just 13m short of being a Munro. And got our first glimpse of the Munro – Beinn Dòrain (1076m).
The route took us back under the West Highland Line, and then alongside the Allt Coire Chailein with spectacular views of Beinn Dòrain ahead
At the point where the Allt Coire Chailein flows into the Allt Kinglass, on its way to the River Orchy, we crossed over on a stone bridge with a touching memorial, and traversed the foot of Beinn Dòrain alongside the river.
Another railway bridge led us away from the riverside to continue walking in the direction of its flow to the Orchy, but on the opposite side of the tracks.
We were now walking along a wide track, right beneath the western flank of Beinn Dòrain.
We’d reached Bridge of Orchy! A station we’d passed through so many times on the sleeper train. We crossed under the tracks for the last time – this is where the West Highland Way leaves the West Highland Line. We wouldn’t see it again till Fort William – our final destination.
Next to the station is the abandoned Bridge of Orchy Primary School, which dates from 1898. The school has been closed since 2004 and the building was recently sold so I assume it’s soon to be developed.
Opposite the station by the river is the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, built in the 1930s when the A82 was rerouted through here. Lots of our trail friends we’d met along the way were sitting outside, and we joined them in the sunshine.
Inside they have an amazing Harviestoun Brewery bar – they even have their own Bridge of Orchy Hotel beer! And a special mouse handpull on Ian’s fave – Schiehallion. And they had my fave Thistly Cross cider.
But seeing as we still had about 18km to walk that day we resisted temptation and went for tea, pop, and delicious sandwiches and fries instead. We shall have to return for drinks in the legendary bar!
It was time to get on our way so we crossed over the River Orchy behind the hotel – famous for its white water rapids and salmon and trout fishing…
But not before we’d taken a few photos on the bridge – because we love bridges and bridges are exciting! And this is an iconic spot on the West Highland Way.
We left the river on a steep path that climbs through forestry.
Once we got above the trees we had panoramic views of Beinn Dòrain and its twin Beinn an Dòthaidh. They’re both Munros and can be “bagged” by following the path straight up from Bridge of Orchy to the bealach between them. We haven’t done them, so we agreed we need to come back!
The path levelled off and turned a corner – giving us our first glimpse of Loch Tulla!
We did the short detour up to the cairn on Màm Carraigh and were rewarded with sweeping views over Loch Tulla and the peaks of the Black Mount range.
More views from Màm Carraigh – minus our cheesey poses.
We made our way down the other side towards the head of Loch Tulla – as you can see I was very happy because I could see the Inveroran Hotel not too far away.
We crossed a stone bridge over the Allt Orain to reach the hotel – a 19th century drovers inn. It’s situated on the 90,000 acre Black Mount Estate which is owned by the Fleming family – of 007 fame.
Now we had to make the decision whether to camp here at Inveroran as we’d originally planned. Or set off over Rannoch Moor – aiming for Glencoe Mountain Resort. Every weather forecast we checked was increasingly abysmal for the next day. Maybe this deer would tell us what to do.
The deer said that as Rannoch Moor was the section we’d most been looking forward to, it was only 3pm, going to be a beautiful evening, we didn’t seem too tired, and had plenty of supplies – he thought we should just go for it! He seemed wise so we agreed and bid him farewell.