Glencoe Mountain Resort to Kinlochleven (16.8km)
We awoke from a great night’s sleep in our hobbit hut, to see a rainbow arching over Buachaille Etive Mòr. It seemed like a good omen!
It immediately started raining heavily again, but the rainbow hung on for a while in its faded glory.
The weather was forecast to improve throughout the day so we had a slow start, making the most of the last morning in our cosy hut, and went back up to the cafe for breakfast.
Then packed our bags, and waved goodbye to our lovely temporary home, MacCallum. It had served us well!
We promised ourselves to come back as it would be a good place to stay and climb Buachaille Etive Mòr. The mountain was calling, after staring at it out the window for so long! We had only done its smaller brother – Buachaille Etive Beag. Their names mean the ‘Great Herdsman of Etive’ and ‘Little Herdsman of Etive’ respectively.
There is a shortcut back onto the route, but Ian didn’t want to miss out even a tiny part of the West Highland Way so we headed back to the same point where we’d left the path after Rannoch Moor.
Where the road from Glencoe Mountain joins onto the route there’s a ScotWays sign pointing back over Rannoch Moor. Going back along the spur trail like we did, instead of taking the shortcut on the road adds on about 800m.
Right by the road here is Blackrock Cottage – a club hut for the Ladies’ Scottish Climbing Club.
Crossing over the River Etive there were epic views up towards Glen Coe – a U-shaped glen formed by an ice age glacier from the remains of an ancient supervolcano.
We were now back at the A82 which we’d last crossed at Bridge of Orchy. The Citylink bus stops here, and there was someone waiting for it. It’s quite an intimidating road to cross with lots of cars speeding along.
Once over the road, The Kingshouse came into sight down the track – one of Scotland’s oldest inns dating back to the 17th century. It has recently been extended – despite objections from John Muir Trust, Mountaineering Scotland, and National Trust for Scotland.
Spot the deer in the woods by the hotel.
We stuck our heads in the bunkhouse, there is also also an informal camping area, and there are toilets and showers free for anyone to use.
Ian spotted another deer in the car park. The views of Buachaille Etive Mòr are superb from here.
This is the newly refurbished original building, which is now a walkers’ bar. We had a nosy inside but didn’t stay. They sell snacks and sandwiches during the day, as well as evening bar meals. Useful to know as it’s incredibly remote and there is nowhere else nearby except the ski resort.
Behind the original building is the large new extension – which the objections were about. Some of the concerns were the design was “industrial” and “incongruous”. The new part is a high end hotel and bar.
The River Etive runs right by the hotel. Around here is where people camp – though it looked very soggy and boggy when we were there.
We followed the path as it continued north for a short time after The Kingshouse, enjoying the spectacular views to the west.
It reached a crossroads with another ScotWays sign pointing east to Rannoch…
But the West Highland Way signs pointed west towards Buachaille Etive Mòr and Glencoe – back on the line of Wade’s military road.
After a brief period walking on the wide track, another West Highland Way sign signalled the turnoff to a much smaller, rougher path following the route of the old military road.
At first it climbed upwards and forded a burn…
…before descending back down to the A82 and running parallel to it for a while. We’d driven along here many times in the past, and it felt surreal to be so near to the speeding cars which now seemed to be from another world.
The house at Altnafeadh, with its beautiful garden that has a burn running through it.
To our left we could now see the walkers’ path up Buachaille Etive Mòr.
Straight after the house we crossed a footbridge, then followed the path as it swung right sharply away from the road to head north on a steep climb to the highest point on the whole West Highland Way – at 550m. And just in time, the sky turned blue!
Another footbridge and obligatory photo stop in front of Buachaille Etive Mòr.
The route ascends on a notorious series of switchbacks known as the ‘Devil’s Staircase’ – named by the soldiers who built the road as part of Wade’s network in the 18th century. It takes you over the eastern end of Aonach Eagach (notched ridge).
We paused to look back at the switchbacks from near the top.
I jumped for joy when we reached the summit!
This flat rock near the summit made a great picnic spot. Of course we had to take photos there too. We were feeling pretty elated at this point!
After finishing our packed lunch and photos it was time to set off down the other side towards Kinlochleven. The sun was really starting to come out for us now.
You really have to admire this incredible path – the old military road.
The winds felt really strong at this point so I had to get out my Kestrel Weather Meter and take a reading – 43 km/h max.
Blackwater Reservoir came into view to our right. The dam is the longest in the Highlands and was completed in 1909. The men who built it lived in a camp on the moor. The nearest pub was The Kingshouse, and some of them tragically died trying to get back to camp in bad weather after spending an evening there.
The reservoir is over 13 km long, and was built to provide the electricity needed to operate the aluminium smelters at Kinlochleven.
We crossed the footbridge over Allt a’ Choire Odhair-mhoir – a tributary of the River Leven.
The buildings we could see below us are at the top of the pipeline to Kinlochleven.
There was an old rights of way sign here pointing back the way we’d come.
On the West Highland Way marker by the sign there were some memorials.
We headed down into Kinlochleven on a wide track alongside the giant pipeline.
There was a sign for Blackwater Hostel, where we planned to camp – almost there! We didn’t take the shortcut though…
Instead we stayed on the West Highland Way to cross the River Leven and walk along the riverside into Kinlochleven.
The riverside trail was very pretty with lots of sculptures and info boards.
It went through woodland and had lovely views.
At the end of the riverside trail we were excited to see this cute West Highland Way shelter.
We crossed back over the River Leven and walked past the Ice Factor climbing centre and River Leven Ales brewery, both based in the former aluminium smelter.
Next we passed the tail race – a channel of fast-flowing water coming from the hydro electric scheme which is at the end of the track by the campsite.
The campsite is attached to Blackwater Hostel – the hostel building looks as though it also may have been part of the aluminium plant/hydro but I can’t find any info on it. Does anyone know ? Comment below if so!
The “Blackwater Bear” gave us a warm welcome at the entrance.
To our surprise the site was almost empty. We always set off late so had usually been last to arrive in the evening. In fact our late departures and arrivals had become a bit of a running joke amongst other hikers we’d met on the trail. So we wondered where everyone was.
We pitched our tent at the far end of the campsite by the riverside. I love falling asleep to the sound of flowing water.
Excited by the prospect of food that wasn’t burgers, chips, or instant noodles, we headed to the new Chinese takeaway in the village in the site of the former chippy. I love how they’ve kept the old ‘Fish & Chips’ sign but changed it to ‘Rice & Chips’. They were super friendly and the food was really good!
Opposite Rice & Chips is The Tailrace Inn so naturally we had to go in for a pint.
It was packed in there and we were standing in a corner with our drinks, when a couple invited us to sit with them. They were doing the West Highland Way too and staying at the the pub that night. They’d been for dinner at the nearby Highland Getaway Inn and it turned out they’d met a load of our trail pals who were staying there. Apparently they’d been so stressed out by all the rain they’d decided to book rooms to get some respite – so the campsite mystery was solved.
The Tailrace was a great pub and very popular with walkers. The food looked good too, so will have to come back and try it. I loved this poster they had up in the bar.
It’s important to try out the different pubs though – for research of course. So we decided to go for a pint in the Highland Getaway Inn.
They have a balcony overlooking the river with amazing views! Ian was very happy to have a River Leven Ales beer, by the Leven. They had good cider so I was happy too!
It was time to make our way back to our bed by the waterside, where the river’s sweet songs lulled us to sleep.
In a bed, in a bed
Grateful Dead, ‘Brokedown Palace’
By the waterside I will lay my head
Listen to the river sing sweet songs
To rock my soul